In my last semester of college, our thesis assignment (for a BA in English) was to start writing a book. I had this cool idea for a horror-drama centered around two sisters who become entangled with a dangerous creature living in Shelter Cove, California.

I never did finish the book, but I did go visit the town in person. Located on California’s beautiful but rugged Lost Coast, Shelter Cove is one of the most otherworldly places I’ve ever visited—quiet, isolated, and hugging a thin strip of land between the coast and the King mountain range.

With a population of less than a thousand, there are no gas stations, chain restaurants, or a retail stores. There isn’t even a real grocery store—just a general store that carries limited groceries. And cell service is extremely spotty. In that sense, it feels like a true ‘getaway’ town.

Part of the reason why Shelter Cove stays under the radar is because of it’s remote location. As you can see from Google Maps below, California’s Pacific Coastal Highway (Highway 1) hugs the coastline pretty tightly south of Leggett and north of Eureka.

But in the stretch in between, Highway 1 curves away from the California coast, leaving a large stretch of coastal wilderness. This area is the King Range National Conservation Area. It’s very mountainous, and much of the coastline is steep and dangerous.

Even for areas where the coastline widens out, getting from Highway 1 to the Lost Coast is no short drive. The King Range is very steep, and there are only a few narrow and twisty mountain roads that stretch between the highway and the coast. It’s barely over twenty miles from Shelter Cove to the highway, but the drive takes about forty-five minutes.

While the black sand beach is beautiful, keep a sharp eye on the waves. The shoreline drops off quickly and is especially dangerous because the pebbles can start washing out beneath your feet. When the wind kicks up, the waves get pretty large and violent.

So skip the wading, and stick to sunbathing.

If you prefer hiking to laying out on the beach, consider doing the famous Lost Coast Trail. Spanning a nearly 25-mile stretch of the Lost Coast, it’s the most immersive way to experience the beauty of the King Range and the rugged coastline.

Just because it’s beach hiking doesn’t mean it’s easy though. In stretches, The Lost Coast beach is full of boulders and creeks that can often flood, creating difficult water crossings. To make it even more difficult, even though the trail is less than 25 miles, it usually takes three days to complete. That’s because certain segments of the coastline are impassible at high tide, forcing hikers to wait for the tide to subside before continuing the hike.

(A hiker actually drowned along this trail while I was visiting. They were just a few miles up from the town, so I saw the emergency rescue boat take off from the boat ramp. Later, I heard they didn’t make it in time.)

There aren’t many places to stay in Shelter Cove. And due to the limited lodging and coastline views, the few inns that are available are also very expensive.

During my visit, I stopped by the Inn of the Lost Coast, which is painted blue with fun jellyfish art. Inside, the inn also hosts a small visitor center and an art gallery featuring pieces by local artists.

The Castle Inn of the Lost Coast, Spyglass Inn, and Shelter Cove Oceanfront Inn all offer beautiful views of the coastline as well.

Shelter Cove does have one campground, which has both RV sites and tent sites. The campground is just a short walk away from the coastline, and is right across the road from the relocated Mendocino Lighthouse.

However, prepare for a strong breeze coming off the sea! The campground is laid out in a large field, so there are no windbreaks. Also, no privacy. Your tent or RV will simply be lined up in a field right next to another site.

Despite its small size, Shelter Cove still has a few restaurants to choose from. For a light meal or baked goods, stop by the Shelter Cove Deli at the campground. They also have wifi available for a fee, which is nice to have since the cell service is so spotty. If you’re looking for a drink, across the road from the campground is Mario’s Marina Bar.

Next door to the campground is the Gyppo Ale Mill, which has earned a spot on California’s brewery tour trail and boasts the title of “California’s Most Remote Brewery.” The place also serves burgers and has a good mix of outdoor and indoor seating, so you can take your pick.

Otherwise, the Inn of the Lost Coast has its own small cluster of places to eat. You can grab your morning coffee at The Fish Tank and eat lunch at Delgada Pizza, both of which are conveniently tucked inside the inn. If that doesn’t satisfy you, cross the street to the Venezuelan restaurant Mi Mochima for some seafood and cocktails.

While the options may be limited, that doesn’t mean they aren’t good. Enjoy your stay at Shelter Cove, and soak in the rugged beauty of the Lost Coast. And if you still have time to hang around in California, head north after your stay in Shelter Cove and visit my favorite Redwood groves.